PARIS — “It all stems from the fact that I truly believe that Roger Vivier has transformed the silhouette of women through shoes,” said the brand’s creative director, Gherardo Felloni, speaking of “Maison Vivier”, the offbeat presentation format that showcases the seasonal collections of the company presented.
For Fall 2023, Felloni opted for couture with rich embellishments and ’50s references that shed a new light on his work at the brand. While staying true to the house codes, this collection took a bolder direction that not only honored the founder’s legacy and archives, but rather reflected Felloni’s own aesthetic.
Think knee-high boots in taffeta or embroidered with feathers, sequins and beads; sandals wrapped in maxi bows; Suede platform styles with a cascade of ruffles and leather bags with draped effects, all complemented by a plethora of crystal-encrusted jewelry or with matching new items that push beyond the brand’s usual territory, like statement wide-brimmed hats or ornate gloves, belts, stoles, waistcoats and boleros.
“They make a whole silhouette,” said Felloni, praising the brand’s founder for developing a look from the shoe up. “So I tried to make about 20 of these,” the designer continued, adding that the harder part of the process was “making ruffles and pleats with leather. For example the suede and nappa Cuissard boots that come with the belt, that was a real challenge.”
The new collection, presented in several rooms in different colors and with models in the style of the early 60s and in full looks, attracted the attention of guests such as Ciara, Gwendoline Christie, Carla Bruni, Emilia Jones and Halston Sage , Nicole among others Ari Parker, Camille Razat and Coco Rocha.
“It was a real pleasure to escape into a world of luscious dreams,” Christie said. “I felt like I was in the movie ‘Who are you, Polly Maggoo?’ We experienced a romantic, jewel-toned salon with mannequins brought to life, serving up wild glamor and a cinematic soundtrack elegantly delivered by a live orchestra.”
The collection particularly highlighted the graphic Choc heel, first introduced in 1959 by Vivier, who studied sculpture at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris and considered heels “the most important detail” in shoemaking, as they were “like the nose on a face is what gives character.”
Another signature was the Viv’ Choc Me bag, offered in a soft, padded and draped version punctuated by a more rounded Roger Vivier buckle to echo the curves of the Choc heel.