by For some clerics they are “the work of the devil”; In the eyes of many gourmets, they are an affront to gastronomy.
For makers, they’re an annual opportunity to stuff as much chocolate, salted caramel, lemon curd or (this year’s trend) cheese as possible into Britain’s most iconic baked goods in the hopes it’ll be a novelty – or at least a Twitter thread, fueled by public outrage – will boost sales.
Of all the items that come off the production lines “with a twist” – including Christmas Puddings and Scotch Eggs – it’s certainly the Hot Cross Bun that has been the most tampered with.
Over the years, these yeasty buns — traditionally flavored with cinnamon and nutmeg and studded with dried grapefruit and nuggets of citrus peel — have been pumped in various ways with chocolate chips, candied rhubarb, gin-infused fruit and custard pockets.
Increasingly there are piquant modifications on the shelves. In 2021, M&S announced that its exclusive Cheese and Marmite Hot Cross Buns would not only be returning to stores for Easter, but would also be available year-round — a sacrilege on so many levels, though they’re like through a miracle apparently not to have survived this year.
In most of these iterations, the only faintly familiar association left is the cross. For yeast buns, eaten in England since the Middle Ages, it was once customary to “carve a cross into the top of the loaf or bun (which is believed to ward off evil spirits),” Julie Duff writes in Cake: Regional & Traditional.
This fizzled after the Reformation and “remained only on the hot cross buns, where they became dough or citrus peel crosses, symbolizing the cross of Christ”. Good Friday was the time to devour such delicacies – not just any Wednesday in November. With an unusual influx of salted fudge and cheddar versions sidelining the “luxury fruit” lot, many people are arguing that there simply isn’t room on the table (for Easter or otherwise) for these alien pastries.
With the right seasoning and luscious sultanas and/or currants, the “traditional, no-nonsense hot cross bun doesn’t get better than this,” writes one Telegraph reader. In fact, notes another, “the worst thing that’s happened to hot cross buns in the last few years is that bakers have reduced the amount of currants in them.”
You’re right, there’s nothing worse (not even a moist, sugary bite of 2021 strawberry and white chocolate abominations – we’re looking at you, Tesco) than a bun pretending to be a classic, but on dispensed with the essential. Some readers are open to improvement, with one expressing a general grumbling that “the cross looks so appetizing but never tastes like anything more than the flour and water it is.”
However, she helpfully suggests a remedy that mass producers might do well in place of chocolate or caramel – “I like a little something in the cross, a pinch of lemon or sugar.” There are even rebels in our ranks: one reader recommends, “in the preparation of Bacon-Sarnie’s Bread with Hot Cross Buns” — a serving suggestion that this year’s cheese-flavored baps might be made for. That’s the whole point, of course: If you’re reaching for a four-pack of cheese-filled hot cross buns, you’ve already embarked on a “novel” idea.
With a blind tasting test of this year’s High Street creations “with a difference”, we wanted to see if those who took the leap of faith were rewarded.
The taste test
Sweet
Lidl Deluxe Bramley Apple & Cinnamon
These knotty buns have a hefty feel and look like whole grain. An apple aroma is released when toasted, but the flavor is odd, with slightly stale spiciness and dull fruit.
Result: 1 out of 5
Asda Extra Special Lemon & White Chocolate
These look like white buns. The lemon flavor is strong and artificial in taste, while the melted chocolate softens the bread in places.
Result: 2 out of 5
Lidl Deluxe Very Berry
The tops are not uniform, which is appealing; They look pale but are speckled with berries. Unfortunately, the crumb is nondescript, so it’s a relief to stumble upon a berry or two.
Result: 2 out of 5
M&S Food Banoffee
Oddly soggy, thanks to mashed bananas. When roasted, the scent is pure Butterscotch Angel Delight, but the dominant flavor is banana. A bit fake but it does what it says on the tin.
Result: 3 out of 5
Waitrose & Partners White Chocolate and Lemon
Slicing these buns reveals attractive, airy holes and their taste is wholesome: the chocolate flavor lingers while the lemon gently bubbles underneath.
Result: 3 out of 5
Co-op Irresistible Blueberry & Lemon
These look like traditional fruit buns, dense and squashed looking. They’re peppered with lots of fruit, but the flavor is too sharp for some of our tasters.
Result: 3 out of 5
Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Lemon Curd & White Chocolate
Super plump and visually impressive. The lemon curd is subtle but authentic in flavor and the chocolate is soft. A pleasant “soft” taste.
Result: 4 out of 5
Morrison’s Best Lemon Drizzle
These buns look really generous with their shiny surface and — hooray — they actually contain juicy raisins and (lemon-soaked) sultanas. Purists are appeased.
Result: 4 out of 5
Morrisons best double chocolate
Bigger than the palm of your hand, with glazed tips and filled with chocolate, these look homemade. The toasted top is light and the chocolate has a maltiness.
Result: 4 out of 5
Co-op Irresistible Chocolate & Orange
Dense buns in the darkest shades of chocolate. They aren’t particularly attractive to look at, but the surprise is in the taste – well-balanced festive flavors. These really sing.
Result: 5 out of 5
savory
Chutney with the finest cheese and caramelized onions from Tesco
The onion is really dominant, overpowering the cheese and creating a moist, moist texture that is far from pleasant. Avoid.
Result: 1 out of 5
Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Cheese, Tomato & Oregano
The oregano is a powerful scent, but when roasted it disappears; Flavors are muted and the buns are quite dense. Disappointing.
Result: 2 out of 5
Asda Extra Special Cheese & Black Pepper
The pepper in these is really dominant, pushing any Red Leicester flavor aside with tongue-tingling persistence. Surprisingly more and toasts well.
Result: 4 out of 5
M&S Food extremely cheesy
A brioche-like texture with a golden buttery color and the Red Leicester flecks inside stand out. They smell just like cheese on toast when heated, generously seasoned and flavorful.
Result: 5 out of 5
Waitrose No 1 West Country Mature Cheddar & Stout
Rustic appearance, with raised sides. Made with a sourdough starter, plenty of cheese and the crumb toasts for a crunchy finish. Far from traditional, but when it’s this good, who cares?
Result: 5 out of 5
