by What a difference a year makes. The men at the 2022 Oscars may have made headlines for all the wrong reasons – The Slap was still reverberating through Hollywood’s Dolby Theater – but the menswear was pretty standout, from the subtle burgundy velvet of Andrew Garfield’s suit to Timothée Chalamet in glittery Louis Vuitton Sans -Shirt .
But this year, a return to tradition and form was the theme for the best-dressed men, who made their presence felt alongside the sumptuous robes.
Classic black tie in the form of a tuxedo was the dress code of the evening for Hollywood’s leading men. Nothing shocking — black tie is the dress code, after all — but it hasn’t been taken quite so literally in years, as bold colors, sparkly coats instead of jackets, and a loucheier approach appealed to the more experimental sections of menswear.
This year there was no such fear of the fashion horses; Best Actor nominee Austin Butler in a black razor sharp tuxedo by Saint Laurent, Paul Mescal in a monochromatic soft-fit version by Gucci, Michael B. Jordan in a handsome black tuxedo by Louis Vuitton and Andrew Garfield – the occasional Red Carpet theatrical – in a classic black Fendi ensemble.
That’s not to say that all tuxedos are the same; Mescal’s cut is 1970s-influenced, with a plush crimson bodice for a touch of retro charm, while Butler’s pointed shoulders accentuate his slim proportions and Jordan added a touch of jewels to his lapels.
But in general there has been a return to safe, solid men’s clothing. Even the outre outfits were a little understated, sticking to Monochrom’s familiar tuxedo color palette; Lenny Kravitz in louche Saint-Laurent silk was the outre of the evening, and while Pedro Pascal in minimalist Zegna with a funnel-neck shirt, or Batman star Paul Dano in embroidered Dolce & Gabbana with a pink shirt might have pushed the boundaries slightly, they were don’t just tear up the rule book.
And that’s perfectly fine. At the moment there is a widespread movement in the fashion industry towards understated austerity, perhaps in response to world events. Yes, it’s fun to see Whippet-hip Chalamet pushing the envelope in a renegade outfit (he famously wore a Prada jumpsuit made from tech fabric and Cartier jewelry a few years ago), but there’s a strong case for that Power of the classic tuxedo in all its sweeping shawl collar sculpting and tailored architecture.
Colin Farrell’s standard black affair doesn’t make a statement, but he looks damn good in it (yes, looking like Colin Farrell helps, of course). So is Idris Elba, who wears a navy blue Gucci silk number – one of the rare forays into colour, alongside Samuel L Jackson in a shiny silver Giorgio Armani tuxedo jacket and black trousers.
It’s also – it whispers – a masculine form of evening wear when so much formal attire has been the issue. It’s also mature and sophisticated; Note the presence of various older statesmen looking nonchalant after season after season of Gen-Z hijinks – Elba at 50 and Jackson at 74 were two of the best looking men of the night. Peacockery and a cheerful dress sense have their place in menswear, but sometimes nothing beats the sophisticated majesty of a great tuxedo.
